Moisture evaporators

[anttracker]

Hello everyone, could someone please give me some feedback on those moisture evaporators used to dry out breaks,winter is coming and I'm thinking of investing in one. Thanks everyone.

[usmc68]

It is a must have tool year round. Call Korey for info and possible sale pricing.

[cdirks]

Hello,

I also believe that the moister evaporator is a tool needed year around. It works great. Just make sure you heat the surrounding area on a cold windshield otherwise the cracks may run or maybe a crack out. Also the heat exchanger that Delta Kits sells is really nice too. Glass can stay hot for a long time and the legs on starbreaks close up with the heat. The heat exchanger really cuts down the cooling time. I think you will be pleased with both tools.

[robert n]

Yes, the moisture evaporator is a must. Even though it is summer...You never know if the customer washed his windshield prior to your arrival. Check and compare prices when purchasing a moisture evaporator....there are a wide range of prices from various vendors...it is basically the same thing.

[Mr Bill]

You never know if the customer washed his windshield prior to your arrival.

I always tell them on the phone, that if the windshield is dirty; just leave it dirty and I will clean it when I am finished with the repair.

[ssbogger]

They work great to get moisture out. You can watch the moisture leave the break and also watch what heat does to a break literally right before your eyes. Do test it on your practice shield first though as the cracks can run. I have good luck with it as long as the break doesn't go much past the heating area, say a little smaller than a quarter. Larger than that and probably 1 out of three times a leg of the break runs out another 1" to 3". From what I have read, different people have different theories on how to attack the larger breaks with the evaporator.

Some say to hold the ME off the ws just a hair thus not putting the full heat to it so intensely.
Some say to move the ME in a circular motion over the entire area of the break thus heating it all at the same time and preventing run out.<-- Did not work for me.
Some say to heat only one area of the break at a time letting each area cool before moving to the next. <--I have not tried this yet.
Some say to warm up the surrounding area and the break slowly and that this will prevent the break running since the surrounding glass is at the same temp.
Countering the above theory, I read someone say that they like to have the surrounding glass at ambient temp so that if the break does start to run, it will stop once it hits the cooler glass.

You should get one. They are a good tool. Just be careful with it.

[anttracker]

Thankyou everyone, I greatly appreciate the input and will be purchasing one soon. Keep it coming. Thanks

[pommy]

Interesting post

I also have one in my kit - but I've only used it twice.

I don't work when it rains, most of the time it's hot/sunny here - when I get to the job, even if the car has been washed that same morning, the damage is dry.

I used it on a bulls eye when I did use it - you can see the water boil. I imagine that this would be the easiest type/safest type to use one on.

Cheers,

Pommy

[SGT]

I wish I could remember the post but a couple years back I believe the inventor of the tool was on the board and there was an in depth discussion with him. Perhaps if you search it may kick up or if someone remembers they could post the link.

[bill lambeth]

Let me say i dry just about everything! You might want to check out the unit surfacedynamixs has that is basically the same thing as a drystar but has vacum with it.I HAVE not used it but just saying if you are looking for options instead of drystar.I have had great sucess with the 3 drystars i have owned as long as you dont go past the 15 seconds on the w/s.I am sure Delta will come up with something comparable to a Drystar.