Dry or Wet Sanding?

[wagner]

Hi Friends, I've been doing headlights for a while but with my own technique; I learned myself that sanding was the way and tried it dry and wet, manually, with power drill and with a triangular sander that vibrates (Craftsman). At the end I saw that power drill is dangerous because it jumps from the HL and can damage the paint, hard to control; and as well the triangular sander, the old clear coat sticks to the sand paper and impairs from continue sanding. So I could not stop using wet-dry sand paper by hand and water for the 320 or 400 grit and water+few drops of soap on a spray bottle for 1000 and 2000 grits. After that I apply Urethane Clear coat mixed wit 50% Mineral Spirit for finish. Is good, but I need to improve the quality and time. Another reason is that winter is coming and water will freeze in few minutes.

Questions:
a) For those using the 3" Orbital Sander and doing it dry, doesn't the clear coat (and/or plastic from HL) stick to the sand paper?
b) How about corners? Some vehicles have HL deeper than hoods, grills and bumpers, even with sharp corners that round 3" machines will not reach.
c) Comparing the Urethane (if anyone used before) with Delta Kits coating, is it easier to apply and/or give better results?

Please give me your opinion, I really need to keep doing, is the only thing I have, no other job, only HL and starting with WSR.

Thank you all and keep the good work. God Bless.

[mend master]

Take a rag and periodically swipe the dust off of your abrasive disc and lens to reduce build up and increase abrasive longevity. If you are pulling plastic, I would say you are bearing down way too hard and generating too much heat which will cause "heat checks" (tiny cracks and fissures) which essentially ruins a lens. 3M offers Imperial discs in 180 and 320 with perforations to give the dust somewhere to go. Of course you need to use a perforated backing plate, which they also offer in 3"
As far as odd angles and sharp corners, I do them by hand. 2000-2500 wet will more than adequately prepare the surface for the coating. The rest of the lens gets wet sanded/polished with the 3", 3000 grit polishing pad from Delta.
Sounds like you are using a varnish if you are mixing with 50% mineral spirits. Personally, for a wipe-on product, I prefer Dvelup's one step product. The Dvelup requires no mixing and is easily applied with a lint free shop towel.
Delta is releasing a new waterbased, wipe-on product they developed and have been testing for a year or so that may bear your investigation as well.
For high-end and retail work, I use Speedokote UV Cure headlight coating. The Speedokote is sprayed with an HVLP gun and leaves an incredibly clear and durable finish, the best clarity and longevity of anything I have seen or used.

[pommy]

How does that relate to wet or dry sanding?!?