Your Suggestion Please

Post your windshield repair tips, questions, advice! Note there is a sub-forum specifically for business development questions.
ChipMaster52

Your Suggestion Please

Post by ChipMaster52 »

Hi,
I ran across a different type chip today. At least for me. When I filled it it seemed
to only fill the top 1/2. I did everything I knew to do except drill the bottom and pop
a bulls eye.
The chip was a bullseye on top and looked like an old victorian fan or a peacock tail
spread out. It a had a short leg on top. It all filled but the bottom 1/2 of the fan.
I tried several times to get it to fill. I pulled a vaccum several times and added more
resin to injector.
I would like to hear from you.
Horace
screenman
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Location: uk Lincolnshire

Re: Your Suggestion Please

Post by screenman »

Did you use a UV shield? Were the parts connected, using a good magnifying glass will help you understand how a break works.

Last but not least a picture paints a thousand words, I am sure with one we would be able to spot the problem 100%
DryStar
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Posts: 344
Joined: October 22nd, 2010, 11:38 am
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Re: Your Suggestion Please

Post by DryStar »

ChipMaster52 wrote:Hi,
I ran across a different type chip today. At least for me. When I filled it it seemed
to only fill the top 1/2. I did everything I knew to do except drill the bottom and pop
a bulls eye.
The chip was a bullseye on top and looked like an old victorian fan or a peacock tail
spread out. It a had a short leg on top. It all filled but the bottom 1/2 of the fan.
I tried several times to get it to fill. I pulled a vaccum several times and added more
resin to injector.
I would like to hear from you.
Horace
Had it rained prior? Did you dry it out? Sounds like water was present (vacuum only will not remove that)
screenman
Senior Member
Posts: 3192
Joined: February 25th, 2004, 1:44 pm
Enter the middle number please (3): 5
Location: uk Lincolnshire

Re: Your Suggestion Please

Post by screenman »

I have found in recent testing that a vacuum will remove none of it, water that is. Simple test place a bit of water in the clear plastic pipe of a vacuum pump, pump up and leave for 24 hours and it is still there. Heat and heat sink are the quickest and most efficient way of drying out.

I was going to go with the moisture bit, however I would imagine people are bored with me going on about drying out. That said 98% of the guys in the UK doing repairs do not dry out, you can imagine the quality of most repairs.
Glasseye
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Location: England, Staffordshire

Re: Your Suggestion Please

Post by Glasseye »

From reading your post and the replies it does sound like water was still inside the damage when you started the repair. Bullseye breaks will hold more water inside the damaged area than say a starbreak, because of larger access point ( crater of the bullseye ) and the fracture area inside the glass. My advice here would be to use a scrap screen, preferably on a car, and create a bullseye on the glass. Use your probe and press around the impact area, looking closely at how the pressure affects the bullseye. Then give it a good dose of water and carry out the same process looking for the differences in appearance and how the water moves within the break. Finally, remove the water using the standard dry out process, checking after every cycle, when it has cooled, for signs of water still in the break. When you are satisfied you have removed the water, perform a repair on the break and you should find a good repair.
One final point is injector pressure on the surface. I don't know what type of equipment you use, but avoid applying too much pressure, because of the shape of a bullseye in cross section, the surface glass can be pressed against the "cone" of the bullseye and restrict the flow of the resin.
User avatar
groofop
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Location: Gig Harbor Washington

Re: Your Suggestion Please

Post by groofop »

screenman is right when he says post a picture, that does wonders.

If you have a problem on the job, DeltaKits has great tech support (or whoever you bought your stuff from I'd assume) and you can just call them up.
Image
--
groofop
ChipMaster52

Re: Your Suggestion Please

Post by ChipMaster52 »

screenman wrote:Did you use a UV shield? Were the parts connected, using a good magnifying glass will help you understand how a break works.

Last but not least a picture paints a thousand words, I am sure with one we would be able to spot the problem 100%
I will get a picture when I can and see if I can post it. Didn't use a magnifying glass but Yes on UV Shield...Thanks
ChipMaster52

Re: Your Suggestion Please

Post by ChipMaster52 »

DryStar wrote:
ChipMaster52 wrote:Hi,
I ran across a different type chip today. At least for me. When I filled it it seemed
to only fill the top 1/2. I did everything I knew to do except drill the bottom and pop
a bulls eye.
The chip was a bullseye on top and looked like an old victorian fan or a peacock tail
spread out. It a had a short leg on top. It all filled but the bottom 1/2 of the fan.
I tried several times to get it to fill. I pulled a vaccum several times and added more
resin to injector.
I would like to hear from you.
Horace
Had it rained prior? Did you dry it out? Sounds like water was present (vacuum only will not remove that)
No it hasn't rained here in at least a week.......windshield was dirty...in other words the car hadn't been washed
ChipMaster52

Re: Your Suggestion Please

Post by ChipMaster52 »

Glasseye wrote:From reading your post and the replies it does sound like water was still inside the damage when you started the repair. Bullseye breaks will hold more water inside the damaged area than say a starbreak, because of larger access point ( crater of the bullseye ) and the fracture area inside the glass. My advice here would be to use a scrap screen, preferably on a car, and create a bullseye on the glass. Use your probe and press around the impact area, looking closely at how the pressure affects the bullseye. Then give it a good dose of water and carry out the same process looking for the differences in appearance and how the water moves within the break. Finally, remove the water using the standard dry out process, checking after every cycle, when it has cooled, for signs of water still in the break. When you are satisfied you have removed the water, perform a repair on the break and you should find a good repair.
One final point is injector pressure on the surface. I don't know what type of equipment you use, but avoid applying too much pressure, because of the shape of a bullseye in cross section, the surface glass can be pressed against the "cone" of the bullseye and restrict the flow of the resin.
The bullseye filled fine........on the bottom of the bullseye had another area that looked like a peacocks tail or an old victorian fan......that is the
ara that did not fill......"NOT THE BULLSEYE ITSELF" (not shouting just wanting that to stand out) ........I am not saying that there could be moisture
in the break.....but a several 100 degree days it should have been dry.....just saying......it has been 100 plus here for days.
Thanks
DryStar
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Re: Your Suggestion Please

Post by DryStar »

Without a picture, it would be difficult to offer any valid advice. You stated the bullesye filled fine but 1/2 of it didn't fill! That is somewhat of a confusing statement. Obviously, something is blocking penetration of the resin.
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