break outs
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Anonymous
break outs
I don't think it's the resin. I use Janvil and (knock on wood) I have no problems. What type of damage is it?
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Anonymous
Re: break outs
bullseye buster,
Unaware of the damage specifics,
Did you remove all the air from the break and completely fill it with resin?
Also was there any moisture in the break and did you get all the moisture out?
Did you cure properly? (weak lamp batteries, old uv bulb?) although this is probably not the problem if it is happening a couple of weeks later as good old mother took care of the full cure by then,
One thing else to consider is the shelf life of your resin (most say approx. 1year) Was it out of date?
Did your resin get contaminated?
Did you comprimise your resin by light and heat exposure?
Since most of these suppliers have there resins manufactured in batches or lots. Maybe a bad batch/lot was shipped to Janvil. Give them a call and let them know what is going on. I am sure any reputable supplier would want to hear your problems with their products and try to resolve it. Hope this gets you closer to resolving your problem.
Pay it foward,
Brian
www.safeglasstechnologies.com
[email]"info@safeglasstechnologies.com"[/email][/email]
Unaware of the damage specifics,
Did you remove all the air from the break and completely fill it with resin?
Also was there any moisture in the break and did you get all the moisture out?
Did you cure properly? (weak lamp batteries, old uv bulb?) although this is probably not the problem if it is happening a couple of weeks later as good old mother took care of the full cure by then,
One thing else to consider is the shelf life of your resin (most say approx. 1year) Was it out of date?
Did your resin get contaminated?
Did you comprimise your resin by light and heat exposure?
Since most of these suppliers have there resins manufactured in batches or lots. Maybe a bad batch/lot was shipped to Janvil. Give them a call and let them know what is going on. I am sure any reputable supplier would want to hear your problems with their products and try to resolve it. Hope this gets you closer to resolving your problem.
Pay it foward,
Brian
www.safeglasstechnologies.com
[email]"info@safeglasstechnologies.com"[/email][/email]
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Anonymous
Re: break outs
Dear bullseye buster AKA CCN Windshield Repair; Mr. Nelms;
It was a pleasure to speak with you this morning. As per our phone conversation today about your failure problem, I believe that you have a couple issues happening in these failed repairs other than a problem with resin or tooling. During our discussion, you indicated that these vehicle were repaired for car dealers and repaired after the vehicles had been washed and detailed. Most likely, there was wax or some other chemical contamination present in the damage. Our December newsletter had an article about how to effectively remove some of these contaminations from a chip to offer a better resin adhesion. I would suggest that you review this.
You also stated that the training you received by your tool manufacture instructed you to drill the chip down through the plastic PVB layer or "7 pecks"prior to repairing the chip. Drilling too deep will only cause problems and make the chip repair more visible. You should not drill any deeper than 2/3 through the layer of glass if needed. If you have any other questions, Please feel free to contact us @ 1-877-452-6845.
In response to Brain's comments:
Janvil is a bit different that other suppliers since we blend our own resins. Our resins are "NOT" manufactured in batch lots or come from the same "barrel" as everybody else's product as Brian has indicated. For this reason, it is "NOT" possible for a bad batch/lot of finished resin to be "Shipped To Janvil". Janvil takes great pride in this fact that we are different from many other suppliers in our industry. The only items we have outsourced in our resin products are the raw components. Brian; I do believe that you received this information about our product when you requested samples of our resins and when we sent you technical data/MSDS sheets on our products.
Best Regards;
Paul Villhauer
President - Janvil Inc.
It was a pleasure to speak with you this morning. As per our phone conversation today about your failure problem, I believe that you have a couple issues happening in these failed repairs other than a problem with resin or tooling. During our discussion, you indicated that these vehicle were repaired for car dealers and repaired after the vehicles had been washed and detailed. Most likely, there was wax or some other chemical contamination present in the damage. Our December newsletter had an article about how to effectively remove some of these contaminations from a chip to offer a better resin adhesion. I would suggest that you review this.
You also stated that the training you received by your tool manufacture instructed you to drill the chip down through the plastic PVB layer or "7 pecks"prior to repairing the chip. Drilling too deep will only cause problems and make the chip repair more visible. You should not drill any deeper than 2/3 through the layer of glass if needed. If you have any other questions, Please feel free to contact us @ 1-877-452-6845.
In response to Brain's comments:
Janvil is a bit different that other suppliers since we blend our own resins. Our resins are "NOT" manufactured in batch lots or come from the same "barrel" as everybody else's product as Brian has indicated. For this reason, it is "NOT" possible for a bad batch/lot of finished resin to be "Shipped To Janvil". Janvil takes great pride in this fact that we are different from many other suppliers in our industry. The only items we have outsourced in our resin products are the raw components. Brian; I do believe that you received this information about our product when you requested samples of our resins and when we sent you technical data/MSDS sheets on our products.
Best Regards;
Paul Villhauer
President - Janvil Inc.
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Anonymous
Break outs and Resin Issues
In the last post, it should read: "Brian's comments:" not Brain's comments. NEED COFFEE!!!
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Anonymous
Opps
Janvil,
In my post I did say "most" and I guess that lumps you in there. If I over looked where it said you produce/manufacture your own resins in house on the MSDS/TDS I stand corrected on both points.
I will say you are one of the few suppliers that has actually sent me the TDS for their resins. Whether this information is considered important or not to technicians, it should be readilly available for customer support and it was at Janvil.
At the present time I will continue to use DELTA RESINS as for me I am satisfied with the results and have not found one to produce better results. In my opion of course.
PS. My post was not ment in anyway to bash Janvil products.
Pay it foward,
Brian
www.safeglasstechnologies.com
[email]"info@safeglasstechnologies.com"[/email][/email]
In my post I did say "most" and I guess that lumps you in there. If I over looked where it said you produce/manufacture your own resins in house on the MSDS/TDS I stand corrected on both points.
I will say you are one of the few suppliers that has actually sent me the TDS for their resins. Whether this information is considered important or not to technicians, it should be readilly available for customer support and it was at Janvil.
At the present time I will continue to use DELTA RESINS as for me I am satisfied with the results and have not found one to produce better results. In my opion of course.
PS. My post was not ment in anyway to bash Janvil products.
Pay it foward,
Brian
www.safeglasstechnologies.com
[email]"info@safeglasstechnologies.com"[/email][/email]
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Anonymous
Re: Opps
The best resins will have excellent adhesive strength(the ability to bond two pieces of glass together.) Check with the manufacturer.
If you leave moisture in the break and then the temperature drops below freezing the moisture will expand, causing pressure and possible crackouts.
In hot weather, (or when you apply heat to speed up the repair process) if you don't cool the glass down before the curing process, you won't get enough resin in the break because when glass is heated it expands effectively causing the cracks to close tighter. It is only when the glass cools to between 45 degrees F and 90 degrees F, that the cracks will contract back to normal and allow the resin to completely fill the void.
It is usually a good idea to cure the resinunder pressure but not too much pressure.
If you leave moisture in the break and then the temperature drops below freezing the moisture will expand, causing pressure and possible crackouts.
In hot weather, (or when you apply heat to speed up the repair process) if you don't cool the glass down before the curing process, you won't get enough resin in the break because when glass is heated it expands effectively causing the cracks to close tighter. It is only when the glass cools to between 45 degrees F and 90 degrees F, that the cracks will contract back to normal and allow the resin to completely fill the void.
It is usually a good idea to cure the resinunder pressure but not too much pressure.
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Anonymous
Re: break outs
Paul, excuse me, but unless you make each bottle of resin separately, you do make it by the "batch". Most companies record batch dates. Could it be that one of your raw material suppliers had a bad "batch"?
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Anonymous
Re: Break outs and Resin Issues
Thanks for the replys,but I do apogize to Paul and Javil for that comment was not ment to put down javail cause they have very good product,and I use alot of it. back to the subject yes I think it could be that I drill to deep ,they happen on star breaks most of the time.And on car lots . could cheap windshields have anything to do with it not tying to windshieds down[ha ha] thanks againand I will try to watch what I say from now on.
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