Windshield Repair Forum

I've been watching this forum and commenting every once in a while for about 4 months now. Here is something I use on almost every repair but I haven't heard anyone talk about it. I read about you guys flexing the cracks to open them up, that's great. I also read about you"popping" a bullseye, I do that too but not very often, usually as a last result prior to driling the end of a crack. Here is flexing the pit. The depth you drill is very important for this. I use a FG-3 bur with a small ball like head on the end of it. I drill just past the head of the bit. Now, I position my injector over the pit and add my resin, usually about 5-7 drops. Now place your scratch awl down inside the injector (w/ the injector male part out of course) now apply pressure w/ the awl. Only apply about 1/2 of the amount of flexing a leg of a star. If you press too hard, or drill too deep you will crush the glass ( not that big of a deal but it takes away from this process) . Just press and hold. Slowly (about 30 sec.) you will see the resin flow into the area. Do this with bullseyes or angel wings or any break. I do this with all repairs. About one in 7 this is all you have to do. I usually vaccum just to be safe. I gently apply pressure and watch it. When in starts looking better and you see the resin flow you can add more and more pressure. Many times there will be a little "pop" when you've crushed the glass below and everything dissappears. It's kindof magical.
Can any of you experienced guys give your approval off this little magical "pop"?
BOYD

Hey Boyd, I also do this on all my repairs. It speeds up the process and once you get the feel for it rarely have the glass crushing you spoke of.

Boyd,

Thanks, nice repair tip! I've never tried that one before but am willing to give it a try. Makes sense cause sometimes I find myself having a hard time getting resin to flow into the pit area without popping a bullseye.

Keith

Boyd,
I am not sure I understand you buddy. Sorry, are you talking about fixing a tiny chip or just a pit, where a little scoup of glass has come up out of the windshield, but their is now actual deep damage to the glass where a small chip or crack have developed? If you are talking about just a little pit, I generaly don't even bother to fix pits unless I am fixing a chip on the windshield already.
David
Coitster

thanks Boyd I will try it.

I, like Coister, am also a bit confused as to the scope of the damage before applying that technique.

I refer to what David calls a "little pit" as a surface chip (no black in it) and also deal with it in the same manner. I simply cover it with chip polish.

But, I'm sure that isn't what Boyd is refering to.

What I was reffering to(and I'm sure Boyd is also) is any damage I repair star, bullseye, combo, etc....

boyd
thanks for the tip but the only problem i have with it is that it goes agenst what delta kits teaches. delta kits tells you to remove all excess glass from the break. and it sounds like when you hear the pop or crush the glass you will have glass in the break when you cure it. just my opinion lloyd

Flexing the glass in and of itself is a great idea.

We teach it a bit differently, which really works well for us and our equipment.

Remove excess (crushed) glass from the pit like Vidales said. Put the bridge on, and put in the pressure cycle. Once in the pressure cycle, if a leg is being stubborn, flex the area around the leg with the scribe. This works almost every time.

Another thing to try, is to decrease the head pressure of the injector on the glass. If the pressure on the glass from the injector is too great, it can close off legs.

Am I in error here?

Thanks to matsu, I now know that the application is used in all different types of breaks.

But, I read Delta's post and that refers to applied flex OUTSIDE the circumference of the injector assembly. A common method of flexing that is not novel and is generally accepted.

Is not boyd suggesting inserting the probe INSIDE the injector assembly without a pressure cycle since the stem could not even be inserted in order to accomplish that?

Now place your scratch awl down inside the injector (w/ the injector male part out of course) now apply pressure w/ the awl