Are there any headlight types you should not be restored?

[sgearhart]

I just ordered my kit and wanted to make a note if there were any headlights that should not
be restored.

Thanks
David Gearhart

[sgearhart]

Subject should say "repaired" and not "replaced"

[glassdoctor]

Nope. But there are some that you may wish you had passed up. Impala

I guess also, if there is water/dirt inside the lens... that's a good one to leave alone, or at least explain the issues before doing any work on it.

[Old Blue 66]

I did a Chrysler T&C yesterday. Drivers side had interior water damage. The owners husband thought it would be smart to drill little hols in the bottom of each lens so the water could run out. I explained to the customer that I could clear up the lens from the outside but since the oxidation was so bad and we couldn't see what it looked liked from the inside, I couldn't guarantee what it would look like when I was done. Gave her the option to skip it. She went through with it and was happy.

[ray6]

I just ordered my kit and wanted to make a note if there were any headlights that should not
be restored.

Thanks
David Gearhart

I always wet the headlight with water or alcohol first before quoting, to make sure the damage is on the outside and not inside the headlight. Also, if there's moisture inside the headlight, I won't restore it. As far as quoting a price, if I can feel surface roughness with my fingertip, I assume the old coating may require sanding after stripping, so I price accordingly since sanding will now require masking, electricity for the sander, sanding disks, sanding lube, etc.
ray6

[pommy]

Hi David,

Welcome and great news about the kit

I'm reading your question as "Are there any makes and models that we should avoid?"

If so, there is a "Harder than normal" thread in this section

If you mean by looking at them - not really, they can all be fixed to a better state generally.

Keep an eye out for contamination on the inside - dust, water marks etc. but still restore them and let the customer know they won't be crystal clear.

@ Ray...

"if I can feel surface roughness with my fingertip, I assume the old coating may require sanding after stripping"

Can you explain what you mean please? Specifically, stripping then sanding

Cheers,

Pommy.

[ray6]

[quote="pommy"]Hi David,

Welcome and great news about the kit

I'm reading your question as "Are there any makes and models that we should avoid?"

If so, there is a "Harder than normal" thread in this section

If you mean by looking at them - not really, they can all be fixed to a better state generally.

Keep an eye out for contamination on the inside - dust, water marks etc. but still restore them and let the customer know they won't be crystal clear.

@ Ray...

"if I can feel surface roughness with my fingertip, I assume the old coating may require sanding after stripping"

Can you explain what you mean please? Specifically, stripping then sanding

Cheers,

Pommy

We do different types of restorations depending on the customer's needs. For example, low end used car lots don't want to spend any money so we provide a simple 10 minute restore by stripping off the old coating and recoating with a polyurethane coat. Takes about 10 minutes per car and generally sells for $20 - 25 and only applies for multiple jobs at 1 time. No warranty. Can do 5-6/hr.

At the other extreme we use a spray on UV cured coat that might require multiple sanding grades between strip and coat. Since it requires sanding, masking, taping etc. it could cost over $100 but would be warranted for 3 years. It's essentially the same coating OEMs use when making headlights, but without the primer and thermal curing process.

When we estimate a restore, we first wet the surface with water or alcohol to determine that damage is outside and not inside. We also rub a finger across the surface. If differences can be felt, and this is a premium restore, sanding is generally required. If the surface roughness is visible but can't be felt, it usually means it will come off with the stripper and no sanding will be required. On an hourly basis, I can make more money doing $20 restores than premium ones.

In between we use Infinity 4.1 (2 coats) or a 1k resin based coating (2 pass/1 coat) and warrant for 1 resin or 2 years with Infinity.

If we do sand, we use a sanding lubricant to eliminate dust and rarely mask off the headlight when using a 3" R/A sander since these are easy to control.

Sometimes we'll hand sand with 3000 grit to give the headlight some tooth, often when using Infinity. It's not worth breaking out a power sander for 60 seconds of sanding.

One thing to watch out for: Don't apply masking tape onto older plastic bumpers. When you remove the tape, the paint comes off with it. This is not much of an issue since all solutions (except sanding lube) are applied to applicators and not the headlight so we usually don't mask anyway.
ray6

[pommy]

Ray - thanks for taking the time to respond - and such a detailed and informative post too!

If you have the time - can you please elaborate on the following?...

...we provide a simple 10 minute restore by stripping off the old coating and recoating with a polyurethane coat.

Is that the Infinity you call the Polyurethane coat or something else?

Takes about 10 minutes per car...

I'm not getting this? Most headlights are made from acrylic, with a tough, but thin polycarbonate coating - which is what fails with the UV light. Agreed?
The aim is to remove the poly, expose the acrylic, refinish the acrylic and replace the poly? Yep?

So what I don't get, is - if you can remove the poly so fast, without sanding - why do you have other methods? Surely to complete the process properly, the poly needs removing in every case?

We also rub a finger across the surface. If differences can be felt, and this is a premium restore, sanding is generally required.

So if it's rough - you have to sand it? Doesn't that mean the poly is damaged and would come off easier than undamaged poly - which is VERY hard to get off?

If the surface roughness is visible but can't be felt, it usually means it will come off with the stripper and no sanding will be required.

Now I'm lost? Apologies - but if the surface is in better condition i.e smooth - your stripper will take it off? Doesn't that mean the poly is still hard and therefore should be tougher, not easier?

In between we use Infinity 4.1 (2 coats)

Two coats? Is there a benefit in this? Just curious

Sometimes we'll hand sand with 3000 grit to give the headlight some tooth, often when using Infinity. It's not worth breaking out a power sander for 60 seconds of sanding.

I'd love to see crystal clear lenses after a 3000 polish and straight to Infinity...

I sent as PM about those applicators too Ray.

Again, thanks for so much detail in your post - I appreciate it and others too no doubt!

Have a great day

Pommy.

[Old Blue 66]

Hi David,

Welcome and great news about the kit

I'm reading your question as "Are there any makes and models that we should avoid?"

If so, there is a "Harder than normal" thread in this section

If you mean by looking at them - not really, they can all be fixed to a better state generally.

Keep an eye out for contamination on the inside - dust, water marks etc. but still restore them and let the customer know they won't be crystal clear.

@ Ray...

"if I can feel surface roughness with my fingertip, I assume the old coating may require sanding after stripping"

Can you explain what you mean please? Specifically, stripping then sanding

Cheers,

Pommy

We do different types of restorations depending on the customer's needs. For example, low end used car lots don't want to spend any money so we provide a simple 10 minute restore by stripping off the old coating and recoating with a polyurethane coat. Takes about 10 minutes per car and generally sells for $20 - 25 and only applies for multiple jobs at 1 time. No warranty. Can do 5-6/hr.

At the other extreme we use a spray on UV cured coat that might require multiple sanding grades between strip and coat. Since it requires sanding, masking, taping etc. it could cost over $100 but would be warranted for 3 years. It's essentially the same coating OEMs use when making headlights, but without the primer and thermal curing process.

When we estimate a restore, we first wet the surface with water or alcohol to determine that damage is outside and not inside. We also rub a finger across the surface. If differences can be felt, and this is a premium restore, sanding is generally required. If the surface roughness is visible but can't be felt, it usually means it will come off with the stripper and no sanding will be required. On an hourly basis, I can make more money doing $20 restores than premium ones.

In between we use Infinity 4.1 (2 coats) or a 1k resin based coating (2 pass/1 coat) and warrant for 1 resin or 2 years with Infinity.

If we do sand, we use a sanding lubricant to eliminate dust and rarely mask off the headlight when using a 3" R/A sander since these are easy to control.

Sometimes we'll hand sand with 3000 grit to give the headlight some tooth, often when using Infinity. It's not worth breaking out a power sander for 60 seconds of sanding.

One thing to watch out for: Don't apply masking tape onto older plastic bumpers. When you remove the tape, the paint comes off with it. This is not much of an issue since all solutions (except sanding lube) are applied to applicators and not the headlight so we usually don't mask anyway.
ray6

What are you suing to strip the old coat off and what poly are you using?? Im getting a nice list of regular car dealers and could use a faster method. Im also getting $35-40 per car.

[t4k]

Yep, share with us all, exactly what you're using, Ray6.