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not for sale??????????

Posted: November 8th, 2003, 8:43 pm
by desertstars
We discussed this sometime back in another post. Nothing definite was resolved.

My comment now pertains to certain physical laws of pressure, vacuum, heat, and resin properties.

OK. I heat from the inside of the windshield under a mild vacuum rather than from the outside and distribute the heat using a circular motion. ( I use a match rather than a butane pencil torch. I use the butane torch to light my cigarettes on a windy day. If it has been a particularly lucrative day, I use it to light my cigar or a firecracker.)

Heating from the inside during a mild vacuum cycle expands the air into the resin. The resin absorbs the air and the heat expands the legs of the starbreaks. I then spray a 50/50 solution of alcohol and water on the inside of the w/s and as the w/s is cooling, SLOWLY re-apply pressure. The contraction of the cooling w/s helps to pull resin into the breaks.

Admittedly, I have simplified this procedure in my telling. A leg that doesn't fill presents another problem. And so on to the use of probes, blah, blah blah and etc.

What I'm dealing with here specifically is the basic technique.

Inside heating or outside heating?

Under pressure or under vacuum?

Or a combination of any of those.

Posted: November 8th, 2003, 11:17 pm
by shermfiddle
Your techique sounds like you really know your stuff. The only thing that I would do after all vacume and pressure cylcles have been completed is that while on the last pressure cycle I very quickly heat the inside for about 1 or two more seconds to complete the repair. It seems to cap the repair for a final inspection. No more than 2 seconds!

"I still love this business"

Sherman

Posted: November 12th, 2003, 7:31 am
by boyd
Desertstars,
I know we try to drill as least as possible however, how about just drilling the end of the crack and filling back. It's much quicker and you don't have to do it that often. Maybe one in 25??? Beleive it or not. I never use heat. I use to my first few years but not anymore. It takes so long to cool. The only time i did use it was when the resin would flow 2/3 of the way in the leg and i just needed a little help to get it into the end of the crack. Flex the crack and hold for 2-3 minutes, if that doesn't work flex inside the pit, or create a small bullseye inside the pit, or use a thinner resin, if nothing works then drill the end of the leg. Thats what I do?

BOYD

cleaner on towel

Posted: November 12th, 2003, 5:48 pm
by desertstars
Boyd.

Yes, I do use the other techniques you suggest but drilling would be my last resort.

We all know the perils of starting a NEW drill hole and we avoid that whenever possible. (I was originally referring to a starbreak.)

Flex or a needle created bullseye is a much safer bet when heat doesn't do the job.

Thanks.

desertstars

Posted: November 14th, 2003, 12:22 am
by Repair1
Heat???? Me personally use heat very rarely if it