Windshield Repair Forum

Today was an wierd day !!.. I USED X-PHOBIC 3 times today to clean pit area because pit filler was not staying in pit..stuff worked great..and yes I have used pit polish and it also worked..just wanted to see if X-phobic would do the job..just easier

Hello Crack People.
I am interested in what others are doing about this problem with contamination inside the cracks.

I think that Rainx is the worst culprit, because I can't really tell if it's inside the crack, and it can be hard to tell if the repair is successful cosmetically until after hardening with Ultraviolet light.

I heard about Acetone, and did some experiments. Now I am using a medical type of syringe with a narrow needle to inject the Acetone into the crack.
First I drill if I think it is necessary for filling the crack.
Then I draw a small amount of Acetone into the syringe.
Next I put the needle into the pit and shade the area with my hand or a towel.
I let some Acetone flow into the crack, and try to fill it slowly.
The Acetone is evaporating pretty quickly so keep adding more from the syringe.
I then use the last of the Acetone at higher pressure to blow out the contamination.
I use a towel to keep the Acetone controlled and wipe the glass with it.
Then I use an Evaporator to dry whatever is left, or leave in the sun for a few minutes.
Repair crack as usual, which seems to go quicker on average and look better than usual

I have been doing this for a few weeks on everything that I question might have contamination in it, and I would say that it is working. This method is not 100% perfect, because things like previous repairs, super glue, and nail polish, don't seem to come out. I still think it is something to try.

Biffstermon

Splitpit

I'm not sure that's true about Rainx not being water soluble in water. My experience with Rainx is that after 2-3 months or so, it wears off and needs to be reapplied. I have also found that acetone will remove the Rainx from the pit area allowing it to accept the pit filler.

I've made repairs on 2 WS this week that had rain -x: Normally I can tell when I apply the pit resin and it has not dried within a few min: I use a little resin and a cloth or a small piece of 0000 steel wool. I then reapply the pit resin and cure. If I know ahead of time, I use the 0000 steel wool. The resin I use is from DK. I have never had a problem using it on Rain-x treated WS. There are some old post on this forum that deals with this subject.

The Best item to remove rainex after repairing a windshield chip is very fine wire wool & maybe Alachol ???

Hello Welshman.

How does Steel Wool remove Rainx from inside the damage? That is the place where I have problems with the resin adhering to the glass when there is Rainx is present. As far as Alcohol is concerned, I have tried it, and I think Acetone works better.

What are your idea's?

candyman wrote:I've made repairs on 2 WS this week that had rain -x: Normally I can tell when I apply the pit resin and it has not dried within a few min: I use a little resin and a cloth or a small piece of 0000 steel wool. I then reapply the pit resin and cure. If I know ahead of time, I use the 0000 steel wool. The resin I use is from DK. I have never had a problem using it on Rain-x treated WS. There are some old post on this forum that deals with this subject.

0000 steel wool is what I use, its the cheaper method, and you don't have to scrub the crap out of your windshield to get the rainX or whatever repellent has been applied, as a detailer, I've experienced different types.

Either way, steel wool and some and little alcohol will do the job, never not worked for me!

Eco Steam Car Wash & Detailing
Formerly ATX Mobile Detailing