Glass Treatment/RainX
Re: Glass Treatment/RainX
Today was an wierd day !!.. I USED X-PHOBIC 3 times today to clean pit area because pit filler was not staying in pit..stuff worked great..and yes I have used pit polish and it also worked..just wanted to see if X-phobic would do the job..just easier
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Re: Glass Treatment/RainX
Hello Crack People.
I am interested in what others are doing about this problem with contamination inside the cracks.
I think that Rainx is the worst culprit, because I can't really tell if it's inside the crack, and it can be hard to tell if the repair is successful cosmetically until after hardening with Ultraviolet light.
I heard about Acetone, and did some experiments. Now I am using a medical type of syringe with a narrow needle to inject the Acetone into the crack.
First I drill if I think it is necessary for filling the crack.
Then I draw a small amount of Acetone into the syringe.
Next I put the needle into the pit and shade the area with my hand or a towel.
I let some Acetone flow into the crack, and try to fill it slowly.
The Acetone is evaporating pretty quickly so keep adding more from the syringe.
I then use the last of the Acetone at higher pressure to blow out the contamination.
I use a towel to keep the Acetone controlled and wipe the glass with it.
Then I use an Evaporator to dry whatever is left, or leave in the sun for a few minutes.
Repair crack as usual, which seems to go quicker on average and look better than usual
I have been doing this for a few weeks on everything that I question might have contamination in it, and I would say that it is working. This method is not 100% perfect, because things like previous repairs, super glue, and nail polish, don't seem to come out. I still think it is something to try.
Biffstermon
I am interested in what others are doing about this problem with contamination inside the cracks.
I think that Rainx is the worst culprit, because I can't really tell if it's inside the crack, and it can be hard to tell if the repair is successful cosmetically until after hardening with Ultraviolet light.
I heard about Acetone, and did some experiments. Now I am using a medical type of syringe with a narrow needle to inject the Acetone into the crack.
First I drill if I think it is necessary for filling the crack.
Then I draw a small amount of Acetone into the syringe.
Next I put the needle into the pit and shade the area with my hand or a towel.
I let some Acetone flow into the crack, and try to fill it slowly.
The Acetone is evaporating pretty quickly so keep adding more from the syringe.
I then use the last of the Acetone at higher pressure to blow out the contamination.
I use a towel to keep the Acetone controlled and wipe the glass with it.
Then I use an Evaporator to dry whatever is left, or leave in the sun for a few minutes.
Repair crack as usual, which seems to go quicker on average and look better than usual
I have been doing this for a few weeks on everything that I question might have contamination in it, and I would say that it is working. This method is not 100% perfect, because things like previous repairs, super glue, and nail polish, don't seem to come out. I still think it is something to try.
Biffstermon
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Re: Glass Treatment/RainX
Splitpit
I'm not sure that's true about Rainx not being water soluble in water. My experience with Rainx is that after 2-3 months or so, it wears off and needs to be reapplied. I have also found that acetone will remove the Rainx from the pit area allowing it to accept the pit filler.
I'm not sure that's true about Rainx not being water soluble in water. My experience with Rainx is that after 2-3 months or so, it wears off and needs to be reapplied. I have also found that acetone will remove the Rainx from the pit area allowing it to accept the pit filler.
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Re: Glass Treatment/RainX
I've made repairs on 2 WS this week that had rain -x: Normally I can tell when I apply the pit resin and it has not dried within a few min: I use a little resin and a cloth or a small piece of 0000 steel wool. I then reapply the pit resin and cure. If I know ahead of time, I use the 0000 steel wool. The resin I use is from DK. I have never had a problem using it on Rain-x treated WS. There are some old post on this forum that deals with this subject.

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Re: Glass Treatment/RainX
The Best item to remove rainex after repairing a windshield chip is very fine wire wool & maybe Alachol ???
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Re: Glass Treatment/RainX
Hello Welshman.
How does Steel Wool remove Rainx from inside the damage? That is the place where I have problems with the resin adhering to the glass when there is Rainx is present. As far as Alcohol is concerned, I have tried it, and I think Acetone works better.
What are your idea's?
How does Steel Wool remove Rainx from inside the damage? That is the place where I have problems with the resin adhering to the glass when there is Rainx is present. As far as Alcohol is concerned, I have tried it, and I think Acetone works better.
What are your idea's?

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Re: Glass Treatment/RainX
0000 steel wool is what I use, its the cheaper method, and you don't have to scrub the crap out of your windshield to get the rainX or whatever repellent has been applied, as a detailer, I've experienced different types.candyman wrote:I've made repairs on 2 WS this week that had rain -x: Normally I can tell when I apply the pit resin and it has not dried within a few min: I use a little resin and a cloth or a small piece of 0000 steel wool. I then reapply the pit resin and cure. If I know ahead of time, I use the 0000 steel wool. The resin I use is from DK. I have never had a problem using it on Rain-x treated WS. There are some old post on this forum that deals with this subject.
Either way, steel wool and some and little alcohol will do the job, never not worked for me!
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Formerly ATX Mobile Detailing
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