Re: Headlight repair tips and results.
Posted: June 13th, 2012, 1:25 pm
Can anyone post how to post a pix? I'm trying to uplaod pix on tricks we use but it either I'm not authorized or too dumb to figure it out.
With regard to coating tips, we use foam wedges to apply all our coatings except the UV cured spray on. These wedges are similar to what women use for applying makeup. We buy in large batches from a manufacturer that uses a special formula not containing latex. This is important if you are using solvent based coatings, but if you're using Infinity it probably won't matter. What you will see in the store may or may not contain latex, but if you're using water borne coatings it won't matter.
We also use plastic cups to pour and mix coatings. Other than having scale markings on the side and small (1/2 to 3/4 oz), there's nothing special about them and can probably be purchased at restaurant supply companies or "borrowed" from McDonald's. The only concern is not to use any wax coated paper cups with solvent based coatings. Our cups are made from HDPE. Some plastic cups will start to dissolve depending what they're made of. You can determine if the cup is safe by adding a little coating and wait 20 min. If the coating eats through, don't use it. Plain paper cups will work with solvent based coatings, but will soak up alot of costly coating and if they're wax coated, contaminate.
The foam applicators are dipped into the cup and the coating is wiped on. The way the applicator is held sort of forces you to put on a decent thickness coat. If I can figure out attaching photos, it's easier to see than explain. Since only the tip goes in the cup, I believe it uses far less material than a paper towel, and think 3-4 ml. of Infinity is sufficient for 2 coats of a standard HL. We use a 90-95 Ford oval eye as our standard test light. Larger headlights will require more. If you do use this technique, make sure that you bag all items in contact with solvent based protective coat, alcohol, foam applicators, cups, etc., and squeeze out the air before sealing to eliminate the possibility of fire.
We also use disposable pipettes to measure out coating when using 2K coatings. Probably overkill, but keeps coating off bottle threads with solvent based 1K coatings. Easier than trying to pour out specific amounts. Saves coating. An alternative is to wipe the threads with a paper towel to clean off the threads before recapping so you won't build up a crust and contaminate the next time you open it.
If you use expensive coatings from other manufacturers and are sensitive to oxygen (like solvent based polyurethanes) you can add marbles to the bottle to keep the amount of trapped air to a minimum and extend shelf life.
If you're interested in a good sanding lubricant, SpeedOkote sells a great foaming spray that's very reasonable. It's water based and a large spray can is around $5.00 and lasts a long time. I've heard there's other lubes around but haven't tried them.
Ifyou're sensitive to solvents, you can use dirt cheap food server's gloves as opposed to nitrile. 1/10 the cost. They will dissolove when in contact with msome solvents, but it is slow and you'll probably be done with them before then.
If you mask before restoring, be careful applying tape to older cars with plastic bumpers. The paint is real easy to pull off the bumper with tape. Better to use a rag under the headlight, or better yet, don't let any chemical come in contact with the bumper.
Kitchen wrap works well to catch drips and snading splatter and is available in wide widths at restaurant supply companies. Spray surface with water before applying and it will stick.
ray6
ray6
With regard to coating tips, we use foam wedges to apply all our coatings except the UV cured spray on. These wedges are similar to what women use for applying makeup. We buy in large batches from a manufacturer that uses a special formula not containing latex. This is important if you are using solvent based coatings, but if you're using Infinity it probably won't matter. What you will see in the store may or may not contain latex, but if you're using water borne coatings it won't matter.
We also use plastic cups to pour and mix coatings. Other than having scale markings on the side and small (1/2 to 3/4 oz), there's nothing special about them and can probably be purchased at restaurant supply companies or "borrowed" from McDonald's. The only concern is not to use any wax coated paper cups with solvent based coatings. Our cups are made from HDPE. Some plastic cups will start to dissolve depending what they're made of. You can determine if the cup is safe by adding a little coating and wait 20 min. If the coating eats through, don't use it. Plain paper cups will work with solvent based coatings, but will soak up alot of costly coating and if they're wax coated, contaminate.
The foam applicators are dipped into the cup and the coating is wiped on. The way the applicator is held sort of forces you to put on a decent thickness coat. If I can figure out attaching photos, it's easier to see than explain. Since only the tip goes in the cup, I believe it uses far less material than a paper towel, and think 3-4 ml. of Infinity is sufficient for 2 coats of a standard HL. We use a 90-95 Ford oval eye as our standard test light. Larger headlights will require more. If you do use this technique, make sure that you bag all items in contact with solvent based protective coat, alcohol, foam applicators, cups, etc., and squeeze out the air before sealing to eliminate the possibility of fire.
We also use disposable pipettes to measure out coating when using 2K coatings. Probably overkill, but keeps coating off bottle threads with solvent based 1K coatings. Easier than trying to pour out specific amounts. Saves coating. An alternative is to wipe the threads with a paper towel to clean off the threads before recapping so you won't build up a crust and contaminate the next time you open it.
If you use expensive coatings from other manufacturers and are sensitive to oxygen (like solvent based polyurethanes) you can add marbles to the bottle to keep the amount of trapped air to a minimum and extend shelf life.
If you're interested in a good sanding lubricant, SpeedOkote sells a great foaming spray that's very reasonable. It's water based and a large spray can is around $5.00 and lasts a long time. I've heard there's other lubes around but haven't tried them.
Ifyou're sensitive to solvents, you can use dirt cheap food server's gloves as opposed to nitrile. 1/10 the cost. They will dissolove when in contact with msome solvents, but it is slow and you'll probably be done with them before then.
If you mask before restoring, be careful applying tape to older cars with plastic bumpers. The paint is real easy to pull off the bumper with tape. Better to use a rag under the headlight, or better yet, don't let any chemical come in contact with the bumper.
Kitchen wrap works well to catch drips and snading splatter and is available in wide widths at restaurant supply companies. Spray surface with water before applying and it will stick.
ray6
ray6
