I do pretty much what Marty does. I drill about 1/8 or a little more off the end and then use the standard slide hammer to tap the bulls eye. The original hammer is much easier to control as to how hard you want to hit the glass. If the crack is very stable you can take the tip of the slide hammer and tap the end of the crack, or between the hole and the end to break it into the hole. I usually breaks into it by itself. If the crack goes through the bulls eye then I do the repair as I normally would and also fill from the bulls eye. Most times the resin will go to the end of the crack that way. Cure it and it becomes very stable. Then you can drill and tap near the end and hardly ever have a problem with it running through the bulls eye that way. If I have one that runs even with the drill touching it, I will try to fill it as far as I can, as close to the end as I can without it moving more,and then cure it. This generally stabilizes it enough that you can drill and tap the end without problems. Then you can fill from the end back to where the cured resin ends.
Once in a while you will get a crack that runs when you breath on it, and nothing you do seems to work. In that case a new WS is in order. Don't beat yourself up when this happens or let it affect your business or attitude, it's just something that can't be predicted and it's no fault of the repair person. You will get much better at evaluation and procedure as you go along. It just takes practice and experience.
Stopping A short Crack
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