Windshield Repair Forum

Wow, she will always remember these verry happy times helping you.

What are the pros & cons using the B150 rather than the DK bridge w the two back leveler legs? I repaired a ws last Friday. It was 36 dgs, but the WS was 64 degrees. I was near the edge of the drivers side about 8 inches from the bottom. I had a 1/2 in star with several small legs. This was my 3rd repair on this 2012 within the past 4 months. One of the legs was on the frame. I Sat down in the drivers seat to see what the underside looked like on the legs. When I did the break shot 2 cracks out, one on each side of the break. the lower crack was about 2 inches and the upper crack was about 4.5 inches. I filled the crack and stopped the run. However it was now in the DPVA. I recommended a replacement and the owner agreed. Would the New B150 be a better choice for such repairs when close to the edge. Thanks for any information you guys have concerning the B150.

I just turned 60 and still repair windshields, going to keep repairing for a long time

candyman wrote:What are the pros & cons using the B150 rather than the DK bridge w the two back leveler legs? I repaired a ws last Friday. It was 36 dgs, but the WS was 64 degrees. I was near the edge of the drivers side about 8 inches from the bottom. I had a 1/2 in star with several small legs. This was my 3rd repair on this 2012 within the past 4 months. One of the legs was on the frame. I Sat down in the drivers seat to see what the underside looked like on the legs. When I did the break shot 2 cracks out, one on each side of the break. the lower crack was about 2 inches and the upper crack was about 4.5 inches. I filled the crack and stopped the run. However it was now in the DPVA. I recommended a replacement and the owner agreed. Would the New B150 be a better choice for such repairs when close to the edge. Thanks for any information you guys have concerning the B150.

I dont think the injector is to blame.
When you sat down, you flexed the body of the vehicle and twisted the windshield.
Since the crack was close to the edge it was under more stress and more likely to run.

candyman wrote:What are the pros & cons using the B150 rather than the DK bridge w the two back leveler legs? I repaired a ws last Friday. It was 36 dgs, but the WS was 64 degrees. I was near the edge of the drivers side about 8 inches from the bottom. I had a 1/2 in star with several small legs. This was my 3rd repair on this 2012 within the past 4 months. One of the legs was on the frame. I Sat down in the drivers seat to see what the underside looked like on the legs. When I did the break shot 2 cracks out, one on each side of the break. the lower crack was about 2 inches and the upper crack was about 4.5 inches. I filled the crack and stopped the run. However it was now in the DPVA. I recommended a replacement and the owner agreed. Would the New B150 be a better choice for such repairs when close to the edge. Thanks for any information you guys have concerning the B150.

When it comes to avoiding crack outs it really doesn't matter which DKI bridge you use as both use the same style vacuum cup to minimize the amount of pressure needed on the glass and both require very little pressure to inject the resin into the break. I still prefer the B250 but wouldn't feel any more or less comfortable repairing a volatile windshield with the B150.

What was your resin temperature? Had you already started injecting when the crack ran? In addition to Bill's suggestion, variances between resin temp and glass are possible reasons for a crack out.

The resin temp was body temp. I had it in my shirt pocket, then hand prior to injecting it. The bridge had been in place for about 10 min. I sat down in the vehicle to see how the legs were filling, when the crack spread. The WS was about 64 dgs F: The lady had driven about 25 miles or more to work with heat in the cab.

Body temp is about 98.6°F. If the resin really was that warm I think a 34 degree temperature difference is too much. However I would be surprised if the resin was that warm even if held next to your body in a shirt pocket, which by the way, we don't recommend.

My point is that we recommend trying to keep the resin temp within 10 degrees of the glass temp to minimize the chance of crack outs, although that is typically more of a problem if either extreme heat or cold is a factor, which in this case it isn't. Just trying to cover all the bases and point out that pressure on the glass and pressure on the resin are only two of many factors that can cause crack outs.

Good afternoon. I dont think the resin was more than 70-75F . The temp in the box was in the 60's, guessing. I keep my office at 68F. My vehicle was about 70F. I'll know next time not to get in the vehicle when cold. Iam use to watching the legs filled from the inside without a mirror.

I would much rather be standing over the repair and be able to react quickly to any problems.