At what point do you anchor a crack?

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pommy
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Re: At what point do you anchor a crack?

Post by pommy »

Kgobin wrote:It is important to use a dropper or small syringe to load the injector with resin. Insert the dropper or syringe as far into the injector as you can so that the resin goes directly into the end seal. The use of a squeeze bottle or trying to count drops from a dropper will result in most of the resin ending up in the inside threads of the injector, rather than in the end seal.
Thanks for the reply.

I am actually using a dropper, with the Magnibond and as the injector goes in, it pushes the resin out.

The screen is completely vertical and the chamber is totally horizontal - can you picture it?

I've tried twisting the chamber in, giving it a small upward angle, but it wasn't enough of an angle - it still pushed most of the resin out when I screwed the injector in.

I was hoping there was a "trick" to this as I really am considering telling them that I "don't do coaches..." I hate to do a poor job - so it might be no job at all ;)

Cheers,

Pommy
If the job doesn't mean more than the pay, it will never pay more.
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Brent Deines
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Re: At what point do you anchor a crack?

Post by Brent Deines »

Pommy,

I'm just leaving for a meeting this morning but I will give you a call this afternoon. Much of my mobile business was on coaches and cab over trucks with vertical windshields so I have a lot of experience with this. I am super busy today so I don't have time for a long post but can call you while I'm driving or between appointments. We can discuss bottom loading vs top loading as I have experience with both.

Sorry to cut this short but gotta run!
Brent Deines
Delta Kits, Inc.
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pommy
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Re: At what point do you anchor a crack?

Post by pommy »

...using the no drill method on a star crack 4 lines were filled, but the last line had no resin in it. I didn't want to try to repair the last line and get stuck being the scapegoat, if I can't get it filled and I didn't want to make a drill hole where it would have had to be to get access to the line. I left it alone
.

There's no method as the "no drill method" as such - it either needs drilling or it doesn't. You can't repair damage that needs drilling with no drilling ;)

Agreed - fresh damage can sometimes just be cleaned of crushed glass with a sharp instrument, but there's always the breaks that don't allow access to the fracture in the glass below.

Older damage will almost always need cleaning out with the drill to make it clear/clean for the repair.

Also, if just one of the radial arms has no resin in it - it's not a repair. That last one is now the weak spot of the screen - it's all or nothing.

TIPS:

If you just can't get a crack to fill, gently push on the glass with a scribe where the crack meets the injector seal, hold it - be patient and observant. Sometimes it it VERY SLOW. Don't apply pressure at the end of the crack. It should fill without doing that. Once you are well-seasoned - you can open the very tip of the crack, watching carefully again as this is where it can easily run.

If that doesn't work - slide the bridge out of the way and make sure the crack is "cracked" into the main damage - you can easily do this by pressing the hole or just to the side of it where the crack is supposed to meet the centre of the break.

So after doing that, if you still have bits at the end that just won't fill - take the mirror off, use a lighter and circle heat from the inside - works 90% of the time. Don't go too hot in one spot, keep the flame moving. Be cautious if the glass is cold - hold it further away.

SUPER TIP - Do you find yourself putting the injector in and out to get the resin to actually run into the repair? Try this... Set up the bridge, drop in the resin and then - BEFORE putting the plunger in - take the centering tool and place it right into the bottom of the injector body - WOW - you will see immediately that the resin in now into the break ;) Take it out and put the plunger in.


Cheers,

Pommy
If the job doesn't mean more than the pay, it will never pay more.
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pommy
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Re: At what point do you anchor a crack?

Post by pommy »

Nope.
If the job doesn't mean more than the pay, it will never pay more.
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pommy
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Re: At what point do you anchor a crack?

Post by pommy »

using the no drill method on a star crack 4 lines were filled, but the last line had no resin in it. I didn't want to try to repair the last line and get stuck being the scapegoat, if I can't get it filled and I didn't want to make a drill hole where it would have had to be to get access to the line. I left it alone
Dude - there is ZERO sarcasm there.

"Nope" = I didn't miss it, as there was nothing to miss.

I was offering you some help and advice, that's all.

Cheers,

Pommy
If the job doesn't mean more than the pay, it will never pay more.
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pommy
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Re: At what point do you anchor a crack?

Post by pommy »

I'm sorry.
If the job doesn't mean more than the pay, it will never pay more.
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