torch vs moisture evap. tool

[Cryatal_Image]

I dont want this post sound critical, I am just curious about understanding this further.
As I said before, I was trained to heat from the inside but I am open minded to other ideas as long as they make sense to me. So here is my question... If you arent trying to dry the chip, you are simply trying to warm it up on a cold day, how do you do it once the bridge is placed? I understand that you can do it first before the bridge is in place but the glass can cool off fairly fast if its cold outside. Someone mentioned overheating the laminate if you are doing it from the inside, but if I am just trying to get it to 60 or 70 degrees then surely the laminate can take that as it gets over 100 degrees round here in the summer, and thats just air temp and not a surface temp. If someone can clarify, I would appreciate it.

A very good question. Why could we use a hair dryer on it in the winter, for a quik warming phase. Then heat it up for moisture purposes

[glassdoctor]

That is the only time I would use any heat on the inside, and in this case.... you don't need to get it hot, as you said. The idea is just to get the area of repair up to @ normal "room temp". That's entirely different than heating to remove moisture. When it's really cold... like below 20*F.... and no sun, it is nice to be able to keep the inside warmed also. I prefer to run the vehicle for a few minutes until the w/s is warm, if possible. But I normally work on locked vehicles so I work just from the outside. If you have access to the inside but don't want to wait for it to warm up, then you can apply some heat to both the inside and the outside, just in a small area at the break. Don't try to heat up a huge area around the break.... that can put a bad stress in the glass and make a crack run. Ideally, prior to starting the repair, warm the repair area a couple times to make sure the heat is fully penetrated through the w/s, so it will stay warm for a few minutes.... and it will be easier to keep it warm by adding a little heat every couple minutes if needed.

With a torch, you can keep the area of the repair warm, even just working on the outside... close as you can without directly flaming your repair tool. Flame on suction cup = not good. Of course, you need to be careful... just use the heat a little at a time, applying heat gradually. With a propane torch, you can even warm your fingers without leaving a burn. Mini lighter torch, maybe not.

If you have a bad break that may take a while to repair, and it's cold? If possible, I would suggest letting the vehicle run until some heat is getting to the repair area. That is so much easier than trying to keep the glass warm with a torch, drystar, etc for 15-20 minutes.

All this using a torch to warm glass.... is best for when you don't have easy access to keys, or it's not really that cold and you can get by with a little pre-warming prior to repair.

[glassdoctor]

A very good question. Why could we use a hair dryer on it in the winter, for a quik warming phase. Then heat it up for moisture purposes

Hair dryer to preheat the glass would be fine, if you have that available. I wouldn't try to remove moisture with it though... that went horribly bad for me one time

[Cryatal_Image]

ok good to know and yea i was only meaning just as a warm up phase, then takin' a mini torch (or desirable heat source) and just brush it/fan it back and forth 2 or 3 times for moisture.

[SGT]

Curious, has anyone found a 12v hairdryer that puts out any significant heat? Most I have tried are luke warm at best.

[Cryatal_Image]

i have a 600 converter that i can use but that is only if i have access to within the car so i can plug it in to the cig lighter.

[glassdoctor]

I haven't seen one that that puts out good heat myself. If there is one, it may not run too good off the average 12v socket. Good chance of blowing fuses, etc.

I run an inverter in my work vehicle, wired direct to the main battery with heavy gauge wire. So I can power standard 110v stuff. Hair dryer works fine (at least on low) with the ones I've had that are rated 800w or higher. Not all inverters handle things the same though. I bet some 400w inverters would do ok, and you might be able to run that off a 12v lighter socket if you have a good one.

Aims brand can be found cheap and they have worked awesome for me: (I have the 800w in my car right now)
http://www.theinverterstore.com/the-inv ... hp?cat=MSW

[CRACK N CHIP]

i have a 1200 watt inverter in my truck that i got at advance auto for $119.00.i use it to run my buffer to for headlight restoration.

[revive]

I find mini torch does the job ...also find heat sink (aluminium block) sucks heat out quick ..and if you have access to a compressor blowing compressed cool air is very helpful in cleaning up damaged screen and cooling down ..and blowing the mess away ..somewhere else