Impala Nightmare!

[photoadjuster]

When you purchase a camera, the factory default resolution, or image size, is turned all the way up. This makes a photo too large to properly fit some viewing screens without scrolling.

Photos that you intend to email or post on a board should be taken at the lowest resolution possible. Beware that some cameras can be turned down to take photos that will fit on cell phones. This resolution is too small. Look in your camera's menu choices and try to find a resolution that is labeled 640 x 480 or email size. Some cameras can only be turned down to 1 meg. 1 meg is not the best choice, but it has to do since it is the smallest available.

If you already have taken large photos that you want to use, they can be resized using the free software listed below.

For Windows 7 or Windows Vista use:

http://imageresizer.codeplex.com/releases/view/30247

For Windows XP use:

http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/d...powertoys.mspx

(the download link is on the far right side several inches below the Image Resizer description)

Some cameras have a feature that allows you to resize photos within the camera. I recommed using the above free programs instead.

Regards,
Mike Stephenson

[t4k]

Good information.....thus the name photoadjuster.

[Dr.Chipster]

Hey Mike thanks for the image reducing info. In the past I used a camera phone to take some photos of before and after pictures to post on here. I will try the free software you suggested to cut out the steps of having to send pictures to e-mail. Thanks again

[t4k]

Glasstime, thanks for the info. Since the topic was the hard to sand lenses, my post did not get into the sealer. I just assumed that everyone always seals. I always replace the UV coating after removing the bad plastic. I have used the CP brand of sanders and polishers for many years and last month I purchased the Metabo and the Makita polisher along with the coating from DeltaKits. My testing of the Delta stuff is still in the "I don't know" stage. The goal was to go all electric on our mobile units, because of the trouble running air compressors & generators while mobile. The air tools take a lot of air. The Metabo is not quite up to the air tools. Don't take this wrong, the Metabo is the only tool (out of 1/2 dozen I purchased) that will do the work and I like it, but it seems to pig tail more than I would like to see. Even using the large rubber abrasive belt cleaners to keep the discs clean, it is still piggy. I can live with it to go all electric.


Regards,
Mike Stephenson



JMHO!

I restored a set of lenses on 2004 LS430 yesterday and I had a serious case of the piggy's as you call them. I have not had such a problem with my Metabo in the past. What is the solution for this problem. Korey how do you deal with this?

[Kgobin]

I make sure the headlight is thoroughly cleaned with the clean2prep before I start sanding. Then during the 320 sanding phase I make sure that I sand the entire headlight evenly and to get all of the oxidation off of the headlight and in between sanding steps I will clean the lens with water. I think the key is taking your time and evenly sanding.

[photoadjuster]

I am still trying to get rid of the piggys. I have found that the rubber eraser type sanding belt cleaner helps. I just clean the disks more offen. All you have to do is sand the eraser for a second and the disc is clean. I think that the disc is picking up a hard spot (maybe a bug gizzard) or something that is causing the piggys.

The eraser is 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 8" long. I just lay it on my little folding tool table and press the metabo on it. All woodworking supplies stock them.

I always clean the lense first and then clay it to remove the rail dust or the brake dust you get from following other vehicles. A piece of rail or brake dust really will scratch up the lense.

[t4k]

Thanks for the replies, guys.

[candyman]

I've seen several ways to restore a hard to remove HL surface. The razor blade worked on that lens. I would be hesitant to use it for a few reasons mentioned by Chad. I will try it on a lens, just for my own curosity. The last set of HL's that I had a problem with was a Chevy Cobalt. I went 180 -320-600 and up. Removing the paint & polyulthane almost clogged my metabo. I was in a garage so I was able to use a air hose to blow it out. When you guy's use the word piggy, what exactly are you refering to? I think I know , but not sure. I saw a detailer last week use tooth paste, and polish to clean his mercedes HL. He saw it on youtube. He wasn't happy because it didn't have the sparkle or WOW when I do them. I used a 3000 grit pad and some prep spray then applied the UV coating. The lens looked like new. You never know what some products will do unless you are open minded and willing to explore. Had I not put the UV on the lens his results may have been short lived. I use Delta kits, because I like the results and ease. Very little guess work involved. I dont like the idea of experimenting on someone else's vehicle, not knowing what the outcome may be. This same detailer used a buffer on a headlight while waxing a vehilce. The employee burned an area on the lens with it. I was able to sand it down and return the shine. Iam suprised they didnt burn a hole into the lens with that big buffer. The shag portion was hard with dried wax and other things built-up on the fabric. Lots of information on this post.

[Kgobin]

Pigtails
These types of scratches look like a curly pig tail and are left in the paint by a DA Sander. Typically what happens is an abrasive particle gets trapped between the paint and the face of your sanding paper and because the backing plate that holds the sandpaper is moving in an oscillating fashion, it grinds the abrasive particle into the paint in a curly pattern that looks somewhat like the tail on a pig, thus the name.

[candyman]

Thanks korey. You must be keeping late hours.