pit resins?

[Eco Steam]

I always use pit filler, it's a much higher viscosity (thicker/stronger) and made for the purpose of topping off each repair. Just because I use it, doesn't mean that the next one has too....I just follow the proper method on EVERY repair I come in contact with.

It takes a few seconds to add it, might as well.

I will not join in on the scientific side of this, because we're not talking about science, we're taking about completing a professional windshield repair, and in my professional opinion, you need to use pit filler.

ATX

[GlassStarz]

I guess some feel the need to wipe of the resin they just filled the chip with and then apply a thicker resin if there isnt a indent the thicker stuff has nothing to hold on to so it cures and you scrape it off what was the point? I use a injector that has enough vac and pressure that I rarely drill im talking about the repairs with the almost unseen impact point 80% of what I see here are like that. When I lived back east I used a lot more pit fillerand saw a buch more with a divot guess the rocks were bigger. guess some missed the point so lets say it again NO Impact Point Indent apply tab scrape and go to the next

[candyman]

If you dont have an impact pt or drill, how do you get the resin into the break? I use pit resin even for the drill holes when I do drill, an that is rare. I have bat wings at times that dont have a impact pt and I drill, inject resin then apply pit resin and cure.

[GlassStarz]

Well duh what about a missing piece eludes you? of course there is the entry didnt know some couldnt get the obvios without a long explaination. No missing piece just the little drill or smaller sized impact again DUH thats the problem with this place some just looking to cause problems instead of helping others learn get a grip and try learning or sharing otherwise go away

[candyman]

depends on how big the chip is missing. If its bigger than the seal. I cap, drill and fill, then cap again. If its bigger than a dime I may pass. Too often some of you leave information out and expect a generic answer to solve your problem. This forum is educational and informative. What you do with the information is your business. Screenman gave you your information. Some people seem to know more than the pros or suppliers, thus doing shoddy work by not following techniques used industry wide or without proper training. By the way, Iam not a pro. I try to do the best professional repairs I can, but I learn new things all the time both from the pros and from experiences. Take from this and other forums what is offered for free and if you feel your way is best, then proceed with business as usual.

[jonnyques]

Pit filler on everyone.
Speeds up the time you have to wait to scrape off the repair.
I can't tell you how many old repairs I've seen where a drill hole is empty.
I also use it as a selling point for new customers, as I know my competitors don't use it.
The cost is just pennies per repair. Only you can decide if quality warrants a few extra cents.

[Mr Bill]

I tried using a resin whose manufacturer did not recommend the use of pit filler.
After I cured the repair, I scrapped off the excess resin using a razor blade and the resin in the pit PULLED OUT.
So I had to apply pit resin and re-cure.
Now I always use pit filler. At one drop per repair, it goes a long way.

[ssbogger]

Since we are on the subject of pit resin, I've got two questions:

1 - Do you guys "dab" the regular resin out of the pit prior to applying the pit resin? I know some feel that this allows more pit resin in the pit and will have less of a chance of pulling out.

2 - Has anyone seen an old repair that you did (greater than 6 months) and noticed the pit resin became dull? Like it was never polished?

[Eco Steam]

from my experiences with seeing some of my work that was 2+ years old, the damage was located where the wipers move across the windshield, yes, the center of the damaged area had slight discoloration and some wiper residue rubbed off into it just a tiny bit, but it was still a solid repair.

Now, I have been out to repair a chip in a windshield that also had a previous repair completed by a different company at a car wash and I know they don't use pit filler and 50% of the time they don't even use a bridge! Anyhow..... the center of that chip had NO resin in it and there was dirt and debris (the repair itself still had resin, even though visually it was maybe 40% clear). Resin + Carbide Glass Expander + Torch + Mylar Square = Unprofessional & Unreliable Repair!

As for dabbing the repair, I just wipe it off and then apply pit resin.

[screenman]

Rather than dab the pit before applying pit fill I just wipe over the damage to remove and excess resin, I use the edge of a mylar tab for that job.